Čiščenje dušilne lopute in motorčka prostega teka / Throttle valve assembly - remove, clean, install guide / Drosselklappe Reinigung
Opel/Vauxhall Omega 2.0 16V, X20XEV
(scroll down to English guide)
Original guide: 04-April-2008
Posodobitev / Update: 10-November-2010 (votli vijak na sesalnem kolektorju / banjo bolt at intake manifold)

Odlocil sem se opisati postopek odmontaze, ciscenja in ponovne montaze dusilne lopute oz. motorcka prostega teka na Omega-B, ker na Internetu nikjer ni tako popolnega postopka. Sam mislim, da lahko stvar popravis samo tako da stvar odmontiras in posteno ocistis. Tistih polovicnih pacanj jaz ne maram. Samo tako lahko zares dosezes dolgotrajen ucinek. Ker sem zadevo izvajal pretekla dva dni sem vse dokumentiral.

Postopek je opisan za Opel Omega 2.0 16V, X20XEV motor (brez tempomata).

Simptomi umazane dusilne lopute oz. motorcka prostega teka so:
- obcasno nihanje obratov v prostem teku
- obcasno ugasanje motorja, predvsem pri stisnjeni sklopki ob ustavljanju avtomobila
- morebiti slaba moc in odziv motorja

Sistem, ki ga je treba ocistiti v bistvu sestavlja pet delov:
- dusilna loputa
- motorcek prostega teka
- ventil prostega teka
- votli vijak na sesalnem kolektorju pod dušilno loputo
- cevke

Vse skupaj se nahaja na levi strani motorja pod tisto debelo cevjo za dovod zraka. (slika_01, slika_02)

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1. Odklopi minus (-) pol akumulatorja. S tem se izgubijo shranjene vrednosti v potovalnem racunalniku, resetira se datum in ura ter morebiti koda avtoradija.

2. Odklopi konektor s senzorja za temperaturo zraka, z merilca pretoka zraka in (ta debelo) cev za ventilacijo s pokrova glave motorja. (slika_03, slika_04)

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3. Sprosti kovinsko objemko na cevi za dovod zraka na strani kjer je nasajena na ohisje zracnega filtra in na strani kjer je nasajena na dusilno loputo. Cev za dovod zraka lahko zdaj odstranis. (slika_05, slika_06)

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4. Odklopi konektor s potencimetra dusilne lopute in z motorcka prostega teka. (slika_07, slika_08)

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5. Odstrani zajlo za plin z ohisja dusilne lopute. Najprej snami na mestu kjer je gumijasto drzalo in sele nato snami dol glavico na drugi strani. Jaz sem gumico malo navlazil z WD40 da je sla lazje dol. Pazi, da ne izgubis plasticnega zatica za gumijastim drzalom. Morda si je vredno zapomniti na kateri zob je zataknjen v kolikor ga snames dol. Sam sem si to pac zapisal in ga na koncu postavil na isto mesto, nisem pa preverjal kaksno vlogo ima (morda ga ni treba odstranjevati). Na glavici na koncu zajle je kovinska zaponka, ki jo moras najprej odstraniti predno glavico potegnes dol. Morda je vredno uporabiti kaksno kapljico olja, da se lazje sname dol. Sam sem imel velike tezave predno sem uspel sneti to glavico. Sem moral z izvijacem pa kladivom potolci. V tem primeru je treba paziti, da se ne zvije zelezna "roka" na katero je nataknjena ta glavica in pa na glavico samo. Jaz sem pustil na njej kar nekaj sledi. (slika_09, slika_10, slika_11)

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6. Odvij vijak s katerim je adapter za dovod goriva pritrjen na okvir dusilne lopute. (slika_12)

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7. Z adapterja za dovod goriva odvij cev za dovod goriva. S kljucem 17 fiksiraj levo "matico" in nato s kljucem 19 odvij desno "matico". Pazi na nekaj kapljic bencina, ki se bodo izlile iz cevi ko jo odvijes. (slika_13)
Te cevi ni �isto nujno odvijati, vendar �e jo ne, bos imel manj prostora in bos moral posebej paziti, ko bo� odstravjeval du�ilno loputo s sesalnega kolektorja, predvsem na vzmet spodaj na ohi�ju du�ilne lopute, ker se lahko zatakne ob vijak na sesalnem kolektorju.

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8. Iztakni cevi za krozenje hladilne tekocine iz ohisja dusilne lopute. Iz teh dveh cevi se pri meni ni izlilo nic tekocine vseeno pa morda pazljivost ni odvec. (slika_14)

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9. Iztakni vakuum cevko za rezervoar iz ohisja dusilne lopute. (slika_15)

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10. Odvij stiri vijake s katerimi je dusilna loputa pritrjena na sesalni kolektor in jo odstrani. Pazi, da ti kaj ne pade v luknjo v sesalni kolektor. Odstrani tudi tesnilo. Tega na koncu zamenjaj z novim (tesnilo med dusilno loputo in sesalnim kolektorjem: st. dela: 90412686, st. kataloga 8 28 466) (0.64 EUR v Avtotehna VIS). (slika_16, slika_17, slika_18)

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11. Dusilno loputo postavi na mizo in najprej z nje odstrani potenciometer (crne barve) in ga daj na stran. Nato z lopute odvij desni del, to je ventil in motorcek (elektromagnet). Tu je spet eno tesnilo, ki ga ravnotako zavrzi in kasneje zamenjaj z novim (tesnilo med ventilom prostega teka in dusilno loputo: st. dela: 9240103, st. kataloga: 8 37 302) (2.89 EUR v Megamobil). Nato s tega ravnokar odstranjenega ventila odvij dol �e sam motor�ek (elektromagnet), to je tisti del na katerem je konektor. Pazi, da ne izgubis gumijaste tesnilke. Na mizi bos tako imel vse tri dele locene. Motorcku pravim elektromagnet ker mislim, da se ta zadeva dejansko ne vrti ampak le poriva os v ventilu gor-dol (not-ven). Ce primes ohisje elektromagneta v roko in ga zatreses v smeri gor-dol bos slisal zvok elektromagneta ki potuje po ohisju. Potencimetra posebej ni treba cistiti. (slika_19, slika_20, slika_21, slika_22, slika_23, slika_24)

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12. Najprej v odprtino elektromagneta naspricaj "carbo cleaner" spray in ga pretresi. To nekajkrat ponovi in sproti obrisi umazanijo ki pride ven. Nato podobno ponovi se za ventil. Naspricaj notri carbo cleaner, s prsti zamasi luknje in pretresi, tako da se vsa umazanija stopi in na koncu zlije ven. To ponavljaj tako dolgo dokler ne bo ven pritekel cisti spray in na oko notri ne bo vec umazanije. Na koncu ventil lepo obrisi s krpo da bo suh. Potem dobro prespricaj se samo dusilno loputo. Temeljito ocisti celotni mehanizem in vse luknjice kot je na primer tista na kateri je bila pripeta vaakum cevka rezervoarja. Samo ohisje ni tako kriticno ampak mehanizem lopute mora biti pa popolnoma cist. Jaz sem uporabljal zobno scetko, vatne palicice in vse kar mi je omogocilo ocistiti zadevo do potankosti. Vzmeti na ohisju lopute lahko naspricas z WD40. Mimogrede, vsekakor se tu uporabi carbo cleaner in ne WD40. Carbo cleaner je na moje oko okoli 4-krat bolj ucinkovit pri topljenju in odstranjevanju zamascene umazanije, ki sem jo cistil. Z WD40 sem elektromagnet in ventil malce nasprical sele po koncanem ciscenju. (slika_25, slika_26.jpg, slika_27.jpg, slika_28.jpg, slika_29.jpg, slika_30.jpg, slika_31.jpg, slika_32.jpg, slika_33.jpg, slika_34.jpg)

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13. Po koncanem ciscenju vse dele obrisi oziroma posusi in sestavi skupaj. Povrsine kjer se dva dela stakneta skupaj moras temeljito ocistiti. Ne pozabi na gumico med elektromagnetom in ventilom ter na novo tesnilo med ventilom in dusilno loputo. (slika_35.jpg)

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14. Sedaj se posveti tisti debeli cevi za dovod zraka. Sestavljena je iz treh delov. Prvi del, ki je nataknjen na ohisje zracnega filtra v avtomobilu je tisti ki vsebuje senzor za temperaturo zraka. Srednji del cevi je tisti, ki vsebuje merilec pretoka zraka. Pri meni sta oba ta dela cevi cista zato ju ni bilo potrebno cistiti. Zadnji tretji del cevi pa je tisti, ki ne nataknjen na dusilno loputo, hkrati pa je nanj pripeta cev s pokrova glave motorja. Ta del je zato seveda precej umazan in ga je treba ocistit. Loci ta del cevi od ostalih dveh tako, da odvijes kovinsko objemko in ga temeljito ocisti. Jaz sem spet uporabil kar carbo cleaner, ker zelo dobro odstranjuje tovrstno umazanijo. Temeljito ocisti tisti del cevi kjer je gor pripeta cev s pokrova glave motorja in tudi to cev samo. (slika_36.jpg)

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15. Sedaj se loti ciscenja na avtomobilu. Najprej ocisti vhod v odprtino sesalnega kolektorja in njen rob kamor bo kasneje prislo novo tesnilo. Ocisti steno odprine okoli 4 cm globoko, tako da se pokazejo vse luknjice kjer so na sesalni kolektor pripete se tri cevke. Te luknjice dobro ocisti. Jaz cevk samih nisem snemal z grla sesalnega kolektorja ampak sem samo s Carbo Cleanerjem posprical v luknjice in z malo zicnato krtacko to malo ocistil. (slika_37, slika_38, slika_39)

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16. S pokrova glave motorja snami se ta drugo (manj�o) cevko in ocisti luknjo na pokrovu glave motorja. Na drugi strani ta manj�a cevka vodi na votli vijak (banjo bolt), ki je privija�en v sesalni kolektor pod du�ilno loputo. Ta vijak ima po sredini 1.5 mm luknjico, ki se rada hitro zama�i. Vijak je na sesalni kolektor privija�en skozi kovinski obro�ek (banjo) na katerega sta pripeti dve cevki po katerih te�e hladilna teko�ina. Zato sta tam tudi dve kovinski (bakreni) tesnilki. Pri demonta�i lahko tam prite�e ven nekaj hladilne teko�ine zato je vredno biti pozoren. Ta votli vijak torej odvij s sesalnega kolektorja in ga vzami ven, skupaj s tesnilkama. Banjo obro�ek ostane tam kjer je saj sta nanj pripeti tisti dve cevki za hladilno teko�ino. Pazi le, da ne zdrsne dol. Dale� sicer ne bo �el vendar vseeno. Vijak, ki si ga vzel ven temeljito o�isti s Carbo Cleanerjem ali podobnim �istilom (npr. zavorno �istilo, Bremsenreiniger). �e z o�esom pogleda� notri v vijak mora� videti skozi. �e ne, potem je luknjica skozi njega zama�ena. Ta umazanija je lahko dokaj strjena zato uporabi kovinski drat debeline 1 mm ali 1.5 mm (ve� ne ker je luknjica majhna) in predri umazanijo tako, da se poka�e luknjica. Ko ta vijak lepo o�isti� ne pozabi o�istiti �e ta manj�e cevke, ki se pritrdi nanj. Pazi, da za to ne uporabis preve� agresivnega �istila, ker je cevka gumijasta, torej Bremsenreiniger tukaj odpade. Tesnilki zamenjaj z novimi, �e sta stari po�kodovani. Nato vijak privija�i nazaj na sesalni kolektor (ne pozabi na tesnilki) in nanj natakni gumijasno cev. Drugi del cevke natakni nazaj na pokrov motorja. Ta ve�ja cevka pride na ta ve�jo luknjo kasneje. (slika_40, slika_40b, slika_40c, slika_40d, slika_40e, slika_40f, slika_40g, slika_40h, slika_40i, slika_41)

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17. Ko temeljito ocistis povrsino odprtine v sesalni kolektor postavi gor novo tesnilo in nato dusilno loputo. Privijaci jo nazaj s stirimi vijaki in potem (po obratnem vrstnem redu kot pri razdiranju) natakni in pritrdi vse cevke in konektorje:
- natakni vakumsko cevko za rezervoar na ohisje dusilne lopute
- natakni dve cevki za hladilno tekocino na ohisje dusilne lopute
- privij cev za dovod goriva na adapter za dovod goriva
- privij adapter za dovod goriva na ohisje dusilne lopute
- natakni glavico zajle in nato vanjo vstavi varnostno zaponko
- natakni plasticni zatic na zajlo in gumijasti del zajle pritrdi na ohisje dusilne lopute
- natakni konektor na motorcek prostega teka
- natakni konektor na potenciometer dusilne lopute
- natakni cev za dovod zraka na dusilno loputo in na ohisje zracnega filtra in zategni kovinske objemke
- natakni konektor na senzor temperature zraka in na merilec pretoka zraka
- natakni cevko za ventilacijo na pokrov glave motorja in na cev za dovod zraka
(slika_42, slika_43, slika_44, slika_45)

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18. Priklopi minus (-) pol akumulatorja ter nastavi uro in datum ter po potrebi aktiviraj kodo avtoradija.

Tuji izrazi:
- dusilna loputa -- throttle valve, throttle body -- Drosselklappe
- motorcek prostega teka -- idle speed stepper motor -- Leerlaufregler
- ventil prostega teka -- idle control valve -- Leerlaufregelventil
- senzor za temperaturo zraka -- intake air temperature sensor -- Ansauglufttemperatursensor
- merilec pretoka zraka -- hot film mass air flowmeter -- Luftmengen-/Luftmassenmesser
- cev za dovod zraka -- air intake hose
- potencimeter dusilne lopute -- throttle valve potentiometer -- Drosselklappen-Potentiometer
- zajla za plin -- accelerator Bowden cable
- sesalni kolektor -- intake (induction) manifold -- Ansaugkrümmer


English guide

This process is described for a left hand drive Opel Omega 2.0 16V, X20XEV engine (without cruise control).

I decided to document the complete process of removing, cleaning and reinstalling the throttle valve with idle control valve and idle speed stepper motor on Opel/Vauxhall Omega-B because there is no guide as complete as this on the Internet. I believe you can only really fix this properly if you remove the part and clean it thoroughly. I hate those half-done jobs cleaning things while still mounted on the car. I was performing this process during the past two days and I documented everything.

By the way, "slika" means "picture" so when you see "slika_01" it means "picture_01".

The simptoms of a dirty throttle valve or idle speed stepper motor are:
- occasional jerky, erratic idle
- ocasional stalling of the engine, mostly with stepped-on clutch while the car is slowing down to a stop
- probable low power and responsivness of the engine

The assembly which needs cleaning is basically comprised of five parts:
- throttle valve (throttle body)
- idle speed stepper motor
- idle control valve
- banjo bolt at intake manifold below the Throttle valve assembly
- hoses

It is all located on the left side of the engine under that big air intake hose (slika_01, slika_02)

1. Disconnect the negative, minus (-) terminal of the car battery. This will cause the saved values to be lost from the computer, the time and date will be reset and probably also the car radio code will later need to be input again.

2. Remove or detach wiring harness plug from intake air temperature sensor, wiring harness plug from hot film mass air flow meter and crankcase ventilation hose from cylinder head cover. (slika_03, slika_04)

3. Release the metal clamp on the air intake hose on the side where it is mounted onto the air cleaner housing and on the side where it is mounted onto the throttle body. You can then remove the air intake hose and put it aside. (slika_05, slika_06)

4. Remove wiring harness plug from the throttle valve potentiometer and from the idle speed stepper motor. (slika_07, slika_08)

5. Detach the accelerator Bowden cable from the throttle body. First pull away the part with the rubber joint and then the part with the ball joint. I lubricated the rubber joint a bit with WD40 so it came off easier. Be careful not to lose the plastic pin behind the rubber joint. Perhaps it is worth remembering which jag it is placed on in case you take it off. I did that and later positioned it back on the same jag but I never bothered to check what exactly it's function was. Could be some sort of idle tweaker ... never mind, perhaps you don't need to remove it at all. The ball joint on the other side of the cable has a metal splint in it. You have to remove that before you can pull the ball off. It could be wise to use a drop of oil to lubricate the joint so get it off easier. I've had major problems getting the thing off. It just wouldn't go. I had to use a screwdriver and a hammer and hit it a few times. In this case you have to be careful not to bend the metal arm on which the joint is mounted and you have to be careful not to damage or destroy the ball joint itself. I managed to leave quite a few dents on it. (slika_09, slika_10, slika_11)

6. Remove the fastening clamp for fuel distributor pipe adapter from accelerator Bowden cable bracket / throttle body. (slika_12)

7. Remove fuel supply line from fuel distributor pipe adapter. Counterhold (fixate) at fuel distributor pipe adapter with 17mm wrench and unscrew the fuel supply line with 19mm wrench. Expect a few drops of fuel from the supply line after you remove it (have a rag ready to capture it). (slika_13)
You don't necessarily have to remove this fuel line but if you don't you will have less free space and you will have to be careful not to damage the spring below on the throttle valve housing since it can catch on the screw on the intake manifold.

8. Detach coolant hoses from throttle body. I did not have any escaping coolant from these lines but it may be wise to be prepared anyway. (slika_14)

9. Detach vacuum hose for tank vent valve from throttle body. (slika_15)

10. Remove 4 fastening bolts with which the throttle body is attached to the intake manifold and remove the throttle valve. Be careful not to drop anything into the intake manifold hole as it can cause severe engine damage. Also remove the gasket. You will replace this with a new one later (gasket: intake manifold to throttle body, part number: 90412686, catalogue number: 8 28 466) (0.64 EURO). (slika_16, slika_17, slika_18)

11. Put the throttle valve assembly on the table and first remove the throttle valve potentiometer (black thingie) and put it aside. Then remove the right part of the assembly which is the idle control valve and the idle speed stepper motor (solenoid). There is another gasket there which you should also throw away and later replace with a new one (gasket: throttle body to idle control valve, part number: 9240103, catalogue number: 8 37 302) (2.89 EURO). Now take the valve you just removed from the throttle body and take off the idle speed stepper motor (solenoid), that's the part with the black connector on it. Be careful not to lose the black rubber gasket there. You will then have all three parts of the whole assembly on the table. I call the idle speed stepper motor a solenoid because I believe that the thing doesn't really turn or spin but rather pushes the rod inside the idle control valve up and down (in and out). If you hold the solenoid assembly and shake it along it's axis you will hear the clicking of the solenoid inside moving up and down. The throttle valve potentiometer itself does not need any cleaning. (slika_19, slika_20, slika_21, slika_22, slika_23, slika_24)

12. First spray some carbo cleaner into the opening on the solenoid and shake it. Repeat this a few times and wipe clean the dirt that comes out as you go. Do the same with the idle control valve. Spray in some carbo cleaner, use your fingers to plug the holes and shake well so that all the dirt dissolves and runs out. Repeat that until you get clean spray come out of the valve and you don't see any more dirt inside, then wipe it dry. Now do a thorough job on the throttle valve / throttle body itself. Clean the whole mechanism and all the holes leading inside it (like for example that vaccum hose for the tank vent valve). Throttle body itself is not that critical but the throttle valve does need to be thoroughly cleaned. I used an old tooth brush, cotton sticks and anything I could use to do a really good cleaning. You can lubricate the springs on the throttle body with WD40. By the way, please DO use the carburetor cleaner spray for the cleaning job and not WD40. I did a test and tried both and I can tell you straight that carbo cleaner is about 4 times as effective as WD40 is. WD40 is good for lubrication but nothing beats carbo cleaner at dissolving and removing that oily dirt in the throttle valve assembly. I only used WD40 to lubricate the solenoid and idle control valve after I already cleaned them good with the carburetor cleaner spray. (slika_25, slika_26.jpg, slika_27.jpg, slika_28.jpg, slika_29.jpg, slika_30.jpg, slika_31.jpg, slika_32.jpg, slika_33.jpg, slika_34.jpg)

13. After you clean all the parts let them dry or wipe them and then assemble them back together. The surfaces where two parts meet need to be very clean. Don't forget the rubber seal when you put the solenoid back onto the idle control valve and the new gasket when you put the idle control valve back onto the throttle body. (slika_35.jpg)

14. Now do the air intake hose. It is put together from three parts. The first part which comes connected to the air filter housing in the car is the part with the intake air temperature sensor. The middle part of the hose is actually the hot film mass air flow meter. I didn't have to clean those two parts as they were very clean already. The third part of the hose is the one which comes mounted onto the throttle valve. Is is also the part onto which the crankcase ventilation hose from the cylinder head cover is connected. Therefore you will find this part to be quite dirty and will need cleaning. Take this part of the air vent hose away from the other two parts by releasing the metal clamp and then clean it good. I again used carbo cleaner here since it works good on this type of dirt. Do a good job on the joint where the crankcase ventilation hose is connected and also clean that hose itself. (slika_36.jpg)

15. Now you need to do some cleaning on the car. First clean the hole into the intake manifold and it's sealing surface where the gasket will later come. Clean the inner wall of the intake manifold about 4 cm deep so that you expose all the holes where three aditional hoses are connected. Clean these holes good. I didn't actually remove any of these small hoses from the intake manifold throat but I did spray the holes good with carbo cleaner and used a small wire brush on them. If you have enough motivation you can take those hoses off and do an even better job. (slika_37, slika_38, slika_39)

16. Remove the smaller hose from the cylinder head cover and clean the hole on the cylinder head cover. The other end of this hose leads to banjo bolt on the intake manifold under the throttle valve assembly (some call this a "breater jet"). The banjo bolt has a 1.5 mm hole leading through it, which clogs up quickly. The banjo bolt is is attached to the intake manifold through a banjo to which two water hoses are attached. Therefore there are also two copper sealing crush washers there. Removing the banjo bolt may cause some cooling fluid to escape so take care. Unscrew the banjo bolt out of the intake manifold and take it out of the car along with the two sealing washers. The banjo with the two hoses still attached stays where it is. Be careful not to let it slide down. Well, it wouldn't go far, but still. Clean the banjo bolt you took out thoroughly with carburetor cleaner spray or some other similar cleaner (break cleaner should work also). If you try to look through the bolt you should see the hole. If you don't, it means it's clogged. This dirt can be hard so use a metal wire to poke through it. The wire should be no thicker than 1.5 mm since that's the diameter of the hole in the banjo bolt and you won't be able to poke through with a thicker wire. After you clean the bolt, don't forget to clean the hose which comes attached to it as well. Since it is a rubber hose you have to take care not to use any agressive cleaners (break cleaner shouldn't be used here). If the old sealing washers are damaged, get new ones. Then screw the banjo bolt back onto the intake manifold (don't forget the sealing washers) and connect the rubber hose. Connect the other end of the hose to the cylinder head cover. You will attach the bigger crankcase ventilation hose to the larger hole on the cylinder cover later. (slika_40, slika_40b, slika_40c, slika_40d, slika_40e, slika_40f, slika_40g, slika_40h, slika_40i, slika_41)

17. When you thoroughly clean the sealing surface on the intake manifold and on the throttle body you can install the new gasket and put on the throttle body. Fasten it back onto the intake manifold with it's 4 bolts (tightening torque 9 Nm /6.5 lbf. ft.). Then attach all the hoses and wire connectors back in reverse order as before:
- attach the vacuum hose for tank vent valve to throttle body
- attach the two coolant hoses to throttle body
- fasten the fuel supply line to the fuel distributor pipe adapter (counterhold on fuel distributor pipe adapter)
- attach fastening clamp for fuel distributor pipe adapter to accelerator Bowden cable bracket / throttle body
- mount the accelerator Bowden cable ball to ball joint and re-insert the metal splint in it
- insert the plastic pin behind the rubber joint on the accelerator cable and attach the joint to the throttle body
- connect wiring harness plug to idle speed stepper motor
- attach wiring harness plug to throttle valve potentiometer
- attach air intake hose to throttle body and to air cleaver housing and tighten the metal clamps
- attach wiring harness plug to intake air remperature sensor and hot film mass air flow meter
- attach crankcase ventilation hose to cylinder cover and to air intake hose
(slika_42, slika_43, slika_44, slika_45)

18. Connect the negative, minus (-) terminal of the car battery and set the time, date and input the car radio code if needed.